Deck on Golden Beetle

On July 29, 2011, in Reviews, Seattle, by admin

In a seemingly rare alignment of stars, schedules and other supernatural powers, the Dining Diva and I found ourselves with an open Friday night and a little bit of energy.  So we decided to take advantage of this and check out one of the Seattle restaurants that was on our list…Golden Beetle.

Golden Beetle is Maria Hines’ newest restaurant down in Ballard and squeezed in amongst many of the other shops.  If you haven’t been there, or aren’t paying attention, it is easy to miss the light blue front with the copper sign.  Inside, the walls are painted in various shades of blue, and adorned with pictures of her trip to the Middle East to learn about the cuisine (I learned about this one by following her on Twitter).  All of the tables are dark wood with a single candle in the middle.  When you walk in, there is a narrow walkway that leads up to the host station from which you see the dining area on the right and the bar to the left; there was almost as much seating in the bar area as the dining area.  We checked in with the host for our 8 p.m. reservation, and ended up waiting about 10 to 15 minutes before we were shown to a seat in the bar area…apparently people enjoyed lingering after their meal.

Once we were seated, we briefly glanced at the drink menu, and then moved on to the food.  Thanks to the P90X, I’m not drinking right now, though the menu looked very interesting.  Things like a Wandering Gethsemane which consists of  Olive Oil Infused Gin, Black Pepper Syrup, Lemon, Dill or the Swashbuckling Sangaree which is Flor de Caña Aged Rum, Simple Syrup, Lemon, GB Spice Bitters, Port.  Once I finish the program, I might have to go back and check out some of these drinks and see why Golden Beetle already has a reputation as one of the better cocktail bars in Seattle.  The food menu was equally interesting, and the Dining Diva figured she’d give the tasting menu a try…until we found out that they ask that everyone at the table has to get it.  P90X strikes again as the tasting menu just had a bit too much in carbs and potentially fat for me to order.  Not that it was really bad, but since I’m still early on in the program, I really want to make sure I stick to the diet as closely as I possibly can.  So, being kind and supportive, she decided to order a la carte, allowing me to get a carrot soup and albacore tuna.

Tilth, Maria Hines’ first restaurant, is really known for it’s clean, simple flavors; allowing the ingredients to shine.  And there was definitely that underlying theme with the carrot soup.  The flavors were clean and sweet and light.  But the difference is that at Golden Beetle, the spices are ramped up and the flavors are a little more complex.  There was a spice blend added to the soup that added a bit of almost “woodiness”, and that left a little bit of heat dancing on the back of my tongue that was nicely cooled by the little swirl of cream.  It was different than I had expected, but it was definitely a good start to the meal.

Shortly after we had finished off our first courses and the first bottle of water (yoga leaves me feeling pretty dehydrated), the entrees arrived.  It was a very simple presentation that highlighted the tuna, cucumber and sauce.  And like the soup, the simple clean flavors were there, but then brought up a notch or two.  The albacore was beautifully cooked, just lightly seared all the way around and raw in the middle.  There was a light spice crust that added a lot of flavor, and the sauce reminded me a little of a tzatziki in its cool creaminess; though it was more lemony and acidic which really complemented the fish well.  The cucumber was light and fresh, and the rice was nice and earthy.  This didn’t have the heat that the soup did in the back of the throat, but the combination was definitely unique and pleasant.

Golden Beetle on UrbanspoonWhile it would have been nice to try the tasting menu, I still had a very nice dinner.  I may have gone a little over on my condiment and fat allotment, but it was well worth it.  The flavors were definitely more complex than I remember at Tilth, but there was still the foundation there in every bite.  It was a little different than anything that I’ve had…most of my “middle Eastern” cuisine has been Greek influenced…but it was definitely very enjoyable.  I will confess that I had been there once before after a basketball game last year, and tried a lot of the bar menu happy hour dishes (which were excellent), so I had an idea of what to expect.

We are both obviously big fans of Maria Hines (double bonus to see her back in the kitchen).  We were starstruck when we saw her at the Chef’s Table last year, and had probably the best meal in Seattle at Tilth.  And with Golden Beetle, she delivered another winner.

Final Verdict – 4.5 Stars

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